Between Perpignan and Nice we’d made a stop in Carcassonne
and at the Camargue. Carcassonne as you will see from the pictures is a fort
come walled city. It’s still very much inhabited, however it’s a mongrel of a
castle, part Roman, Part this part that and then just to completely ruin it
part one mans fantasy of what it should have looked like in a chivalrous age
gone by. As a historical artefact the place leaves you a little bemused and if
I was being harsh, frankly ripped off, mugged, taken for a ride. The French are trying to do a forensic
archaeological study to find the truth of the place and it deserves no less.
However they have the same problem as Eugène Viollet-le-Duc http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eug%C3%A8ne_Viollet-le-Duc
, the guy who had a go at restoring in it in the 1800s to whit: all the plans
of the plans were destroyed in a fire ... twice.
Wooden Galleries Mounted on Battlement to Assist in the Killing of Foes |
The pointy round slated roofs where once would have been
battlements are one of the glaring flaws with his restoration, more fairy tale
princess than place to hurl boulders and pour boiling oil from. In places its
historically true but in others its just delusional twaddle in badly cut stone
or worse (I think) concrete. Apparently its restoration is considered to be a
work of genius by some ... shows what I know.
The whole city, is full of souvenir shops selling all manner
of tut, from sweets to biscuits, steam punk clothing, gothic apparel, and all
the usual crap, mugs, t-shirts, fairy costumes, wooden swords and bows and
arrows and knives and swords ... I wondered looking around at the knives and
swords if France has a problem with knife crime and the ownership of knives by
the wrong sort of people.
Cannon Balls From Days of Yore |
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